Sunday 6 December 2015

Panama Day Five


Sunday, November 22, 2015

Travelling the River to Aruza

I’m pretty sure I read somewhere that roosters crow at dawn to announce the morning, but this is not true in Panama…no, the roosters here crow.  All.  Night.  Long.  I’m pretty sure if you listen, the rooster can be heard stalking up the hill through the grass in the night waiting for the exact moment someone falls asleep and then begins his concert chaos of crowing.  Without mentioning any name one of our team would be aggravated into action, slipping out in the night, taking a risk, attempting to stop the madness!

Good morning in Yaviza…pancakes, maple syrup, eggs scrambled served up with boot coffee.  We are pensive, thinking, praying, preparing ourselves for our next move, up river to Aruza, our first indigenous community, the Wounaans.  Under our breath praying for God’s lead, His care, we move about the camp packing our small bags; clothing, bedding, food and small gifts for these people, God’s family.  Everything is wrapped in large plastic bags; we will be travelling in an open boat and the baggage needs to be protected from water spray as well as rain.  Right now though, the sun is shining, bright, hot, Hot.  Our boat ride will be long; we are sun screened, our heads covered with hats and umbrellas on hand, all a protection from the sun. 

The boat has arrived and we trek down to the water’s edge to load and board.  The boat, a piragua; a wooden flat bottomed dugout canoe is about forty feet in length; we sit two by two, thirteen of us with the baggage piled up in the middle.  Operating the small Evinrude motor at the back is Lupo and the front manned by Dalecio with a pole used for steering and docking, these men guiding us… an unbelievable adventure that will take us five hours upriver.

This river highway, that carries travelers back and forth to different villages is in constant guard, monitored by the Senafront, we make two stops to show passports and papers.  All travelers must make these stops, not just foreigners…each time we are allowed to carry on…yes go.

The river reminds me of the Jordan River in Israel, its width, the color, the trees along its edges, the way the branches hang down and drape over the water in places.  There are many kinds of palm trees, bamboo grasses and trees with large canopies.  We pass by other boats, loaded with people holding colorful umbrellas, boats of one or two men carrying cargoes of plantains or papayas and others with small families making their way somewhere; waving. Birds grace the river banks, resting on logs, black cormorants, white pelicans, others silver and grey, standing in groups or perched alone.  Butterflies flutter on the shores, hundreds; yellow, white, lime green scavenging over some sweet something left on the river edges.  Now and then the river banks become muddy dirt walls topped with grasses or sometimes a hut or two, and then down again laying low;  muddy marshes where small alligators nestle or some such animal perhaps snakes… having burrowed holes into the banks.  All the while the surf from our small motor rolled out to the land in a ‘V’ behind us reminding us of the vision Deanne had before we left…ask her.

Taking a fork in the river we veer left steering our way to the shores of Aruza, our first community visit.

We are amazed at this village, the wide cement stairs leading skyward, welcome us up… as we take each step, the village unfolds before us…an organized grid of sidewalks, lined by huts on stilts, thatched roofs, wires running electricity, street lights, satellite dishes, trimmed grass, clean, dotted with outhouses, a community building, 3 church buildings, behind us a walking bridge that mimics the Port Man, white wire cables and cement towers holding it all up.  Unbelievable.  And watching us; the people who live here, children, parents, grandparents taking us in, wondering about us. 

The memories here will last a life time…starting with the water meeting, the people waiting to hear Alan’s message about the new water system, his name the only mark on the calendar, sitting next to Donald the young man who spoke English, us standing in the rain getting relief from the heat, laughing and playing football in the mud, slipping, sliding, blowing up balloons and playing balloon volleyball, the meal, bathing in the river to cool down and the church service, singing, listening, eyes wide open…beautiful people, beautiful children, us; loving and learning. 

We will find out that we have been the first foreign group to travel up the river, into  the red zone, in twenty years. 



Unbelievable.